Written by Eric Gans
I have completed over 2000 Home Performance with ENERGY STAR® home energy audits in Maryland, and I like to write about my experiences.

 

 

 

One of the most common calls I get from homeowners goes something like this:

"My heat is running… but the house still feels cold."

Sometimes it’s a single room.
Sometimes it’s a basement.
But in this case, it was something more unusual.

The entire middle level of a townhouse was cold.

The homeowner had lived in the home for nearly 20 years and recently started noticing something troubling. Even with the thermostat set to 65°F, the living level rarely felt comfortable. To compensate, he had placed three electric space heaters around the room.

The heaters helped a little, but his winter utility bills were climbing over $400 per month.

That’s when he scheduled an energy audit.

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What Is an Energy Audit?

An energy audit is essentially a diagnostic investigation of how a home loses energy.

Instead of guessing at the problem, we use a combination of:

• Visual inspection

• Pressure testing (blower door test)

• Building science principles

The goal is simple:

Find where energy is escaping and identify the most cost-effective ways to fix it.

Many homeowners assume the problem is something obvious, like windows or HVAC equipment.

But most of the time, the real issue is hidden.

 

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First Clue: The Stack Effect

Within minutes of walking through the home, one thing became clear.

This house was experiencing a classic building science phenomenon called the stack effect.

Warm air naturally rises.

When warm air escapes through the top of the house, it creates a pressure imbalance that draws cold air into the lower parts of the structure.

Think of the house like a chimney.

Heat escapes from the top.
Cold air gets sucked in from the bottom.

The result?

• Cold floors.
• Drafty rooms.
• And heating systems that seem like they can never catch up.

But to confirm the theory, we needed to check the attic.

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What We Found in the Attic

The attic told the whole story.

As soon as I climbed through the attic hatch, several issues became obvious.

1. Missing Insulation Above the Bathroom

Because the home has vaulted ceilings, the roofline slopes upward across the house.

However, the bathroom ceiling below is only about 8 feet high.

This created a large hidden cavity above the bathroom where insulation had been installed incorrectly.

Instead of insulating the vertical wall separating the attic from the house, the insulation had simply been laid across the floor joists.

The result was a large, uninsulated pocket directly above the living space.

 

Warm air from the house was escaping directly into this space.

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2. A Large HVAC Chase Open to the Attic

Next we discovered a major air leakage pathway.

The ductwork from the furnace travels from the basement up through a vertical shaft (called a chase) into the attic.

Unfortunately, this chase was completely open.

That means heated air from the home could freely travel up this pathway and escape into the attic.

Imagine cutting a hole in your ceiling and leaving it open all winter.

That’s essentially what was happening here.

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3. Insulation Installed… But Not Doing Its Job

The attic did contain fiberglass insulation.

However, insulation only works properly when it sits on top of a sealed air barrier.

Without air sealing, insulation behaves like a sweater in the wind.

Air simply blows through it.

In several places, insulation had shifted or been installed incorrectly, leaving gaps where heat could escape.

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The Blower Door Test

To confirm the problem, we ran a blower door test.

This test uses a large calibrated fan installed in the front door to depressurize the house.

When the house is under pressure, outside air gets pulled through every crack and gap in the building envelope.

That makes hidden air leaks visible.

During the test, we observed significant airflow entering through:

• attic bypasses

• rim joist areas

• framing penetrations

This confirmed that the home was losing a significant amount of heat through uncontrolled air leakage.

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Why Space Heaters Were Not the Solution

The homeowner had been using three electric space heaters to warm the middle floor.

Each heater produces about 5,100 BTU/hr.

Combined, the three units provide about 15,000 BTU/hr of heat.

But electric resistance heating is expensive.

In fact, electric space heaters can cost three times as much per unit of heat as natural gas heating.

So while the heaters provided temporary comfort, they were actually increasing overall energy costs.

The real solution was to stop the heat loss, not add more heat.

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The Real Fix

The good news is that problems like this are usually fixable.

The most effective improvements for this home included:

1. Attic Air Sealing

Sealing the attic floor and all penetrations to stop warm air from escaping.

2. Closing the HVAC Chase

Install an air barrier around the duct chase to prevent heated air from escaping into the attic.

3. Correcting the Knee Wall Insulation

Properly insulating the vertical knee wall around the bathroom cavity.

4. Sealing Rim Joists

Air-seal accessible rim-joist areas along the exterior walls.

These improvements help transform the house from a leaky chimney into a controlled, efficient structure.

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Why Energy Audits Matter

Many homeowners assume the solution to comfort problems is:

• replacing windows

• upgrading HVAC systems

• installing larger equipment

But in many homes, the real problem is the building envelope.

Energy audits identify the low-hanging fruit — the improvements that deliver the greatest benefit for the lowest cost.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, air sealing and insulation improvements can reduce heating and cooling costs by about 15%.

But just as important, they make homes far more comfortable.

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The Takeaways

This townhouse had a good heating system.

The equipment was not the problem.

The house simply had a few hidden pathways allowing heat to escape.

Once those pathways are sealed and the attic insulation is corrected, the middle floor should feel dramatically different.

And those space heaters?

They can finally be retired.

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If you’ve ever wondered why your home feels cold even when the heat is running, an energy audit might reveal the answer.

Sometimes the problem isn’t the heating system at all.

Sometimes the house just needs a little help holding onto the heat it already has.

Surprisingly, many BGE and Pepco customers are unaware of the rebates available for energy-efficiency upgrades around the home. Through Maryland’s Home Performance with ENERGY STAR program, eligible homeowners can receive incentives covering up to 75% of project costs—up to $10,000 for traditional efficiency improvements like air sealing, insulation, duct improvements, windows, doors, and HVAC upgrades.

For projects that include qualified electrification upgrades—such as heat pump HVAC systems and/or heat pump water heaters—the incentive cap can increase to up to $15,000. The key first step is completing a comprehensive home energy audit, which identifies opportunities, establishes energy savings, and determines rebate eligibility before any work begins.

If you’ve ever walked into a room in your home and thought, “Why is it always freezing in here?”, you’re not alone. And the answer isn’t always what you think.

I was recently called out to a home in Maryland to do a complete energy audit for a family dealing with, you guessed it, cold floors, uneven temperatures, and high energy bills. It wasn’t a huge home, and from the outside, everything looked normal.

But what I found inside told a completely different story.

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The Setup: Drafty Room, High Electric Bills, and Suspicion About the Crawl Space

When I arrived, the homeowner mentioned that their electric bill had soared over $1,100 during the winter. And the kicker? They weren’t even using the entire house.

That’s when I started digging, literally and figuratively.

We ran a blower door test to see how leaky the home was. The air just poured through. But where it was leaking from… that’s where things got interesting.

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The Crawl Space: Moisture, Gaps, and Unwanted Guests

The crawl space wasn’t fully open but wasn’t encapsulated either. The homeowner thought it was semi-conditioned, but it was in limbo. There were signs of past rodent activity, visible air movement through cracks, and a vapor barrier that had been mostly sealed but not completely.

The biggest problem?

•  Massive gaps in the rim and band joists.
•  Holes were cut for ductwork that opened straight to the exterior siding.
•  No insulation in key areas.

When I say I could touch the back of the aluminum siding from inside the house, I mean it.

This wasn’t just an insulation problem. This was a major connection point to the outside and a straight shot for cold air infiltrating the home. No wonder they had high energy bills.

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Stack Effect in Action

Upstairs, I found classic signs of the stack effect. An invisible force where hot air rises and escapes through the top of your home, pulling cold air up from the bottom.

You could feel the airflow at the recessed lights and attic access hatch. Even the insulation looked as if it had been shifted by the wind, a phenomenon known as wind washing, which was happening above the daughter’s bedroom. The wind had pushed the insulation away from the edges, exposing the ceiling and causing severe temperature fluctuations.

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The Real Fix: Sealing the Bottom AND the Top

Here’s what we recommended, and why it works:

Crawl Space Encapsulation:

• Fully seal the vapor barrier (which was already partially installed, a good start!).

• Insulate the crawl space walls, not the floor above. This brings the space into a semi-conditioned zone.

• Use rigid foamboard and 2-part spray foam to seal rim joists and large cutouts.

• Eliminate outside air intrusion (and mouse pathways).

• Result: The ducts and subfloor stop losing heat, moisture drops, and pests stay out.

Attic Improvements:

• Targeted air sealing at top plates, bath fans, electrical cutouts, and chase ways.

• Install baffles to prep for possible future soffit ventilation.

• Add loose-fill cellulose to bring insulation levels to R-49.

• Insulate and weather-strip the attic access hatch to complete the boundary.

Bath Fan Venting:

• Reroute bath fans that are currently terminated at gable vents.

• Properly vent them outside, as required for rebate eligibility and indoor air quality.

 

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Unexpected Bonus: Loose Duct Discovered

While inspecting the attic, I found an unsecured elbow joint on a duct supplying a second-floor bathroom. It was barely attached and likely leaking heated air into the attic. We reconnected it, but it must still be sealed and appropriately fastened to improve duct pressure and conditioned air delivery.

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The Bigger Picture: What Makes a Home Truly Comfortable

You can buy the best HVAC system in the world, but it'll never feel right if your home leaks air like a sieve. Insulation is only part of the equation. Air sealing is the hidden hero, and it’s almost always overlooked.

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If You Live in an Uncomfortable Home, Start Here

Your home isn’t broken, it’s just misunderstood. That’s what energy audits are for.

• We diagnose the invisible issues
• We quantify how much energy (and money) you’re losing
• We build a prioritized plan, no fluff, just results

And with rebates available through Maryland's BGE & PEPCO Home Performance with ENERGY STAR® program, many of our recommended improvements qualify for thousands in incentives.

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Book your $100 home energy audit now
Schedule Online

Let’s find the comfort you’ve been missing, hiding in plain sight.

Written by Eric Gans, Building Analyst & Envelope Professional
I'm a certified energy auditor and insulation contractor in Maryland. I have completed over 2,000 energy audits and taken over 2,000 trips to attics.

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Does one room in your home always feel too hot or too cold?

The problem might be your attic hatch — a small, often overlooked gap that could be quietly sabotaging your home’s comfort and efficiency.

In this step-by-step DIY guide, I’ll show you how to seal and insulate your attic hatch using rigid foam board and a few affordable tools. It’s a quick project with a big payoff in any house that has an access panel connected to an attic. It might be on the ceiling or a wall.

Thermography reveals that the attic hatch is connected to the attic.

Why Insulating Your Attic Hatch Matters

Your attic hatch may look like a minor detail, but it can have a significant impact on your home’s thermal performance. If left uninsulated or poorly sealed, it creates a weak point in your attic’s defense system.

Here’s what happens when it’s ignored:

• Warm or cool air escapes through the hatch, increasing HVAC workload.

• Rooms near the hatch become drafty or uncomfortable.

• The entire attic’s effective R-value drops, even if the rest of the attic is well-insulated.

For example, in a 1,000 sq. ft. attic, just 18 sq. ft. of missing insulation at the hatch can reduce the R-value from R-17 to R-13.
 

Tools & Materials You’ll Need

These are the exact tools and materials I use and recommend in the video. The links below are affiliate links — I earn a small commission if you purchase through them (thank you for supporting my work!).

• Echo Tape (foil + fiberglass scrim + aggressive adhesive)
  Shop on Amazon

• Foam Board Adhesive (PL 300)
  Shop on Amazon

• Rigid Foamboard Insulation (R-value per inch)
  Shop via this link

• 8" Insulation Knife with Wood Handle
  Quick Link

• Weatherstripping: 3/8" wide, 3/16" thick, ~17 feet long
  Get it Here

Also, grab a:

• Tape measure

• Marker or pencil for layout lines

• A clean rag to wipe dust and debris

Step-by-Step: How to Seal and Insulate Your Attic Hatch

1. Inspect Your Existing Hatch

Pop it open and see what you’re working with. You may find:

• No insulation at all, or

• Old foam board that's thin or poorly attached

Either way, you can improve it — and now’s the time.

2. Clear & Prep the Surface

• Remove any old insulation, staples, nails, and debris

• Wipe down the surface to ensure your adhesive sticks properly

Tip: A clean surface = better long-term performance.

3. Measure & Cut the Foamboard

• Measure the hatch panel, but leave a small gap around the edge so the panel fits back into the opening easily

• Cut your rigid foamboard with a long knife

Stack the layers until you reach the desired R-value. In Maryland, I used four layers to achieve an R-52 rating.

4. Attach Insulation to the Hatch

• Use foam board adhesive (PL 300) to glue the layers directly onto the panel.

• Let it cure flat to prevent bowing.

This ensures the insulation stays in place, even when accessing the attic repeatedly.

5. Apply Foil Tape for Durability

• Use echo tape, not duct tape

• Tape around all edges of the insulation for a tight seal and a clean look

Tip: Duct tape will fail in an attic. It breaks down from heat and dust.

6. Install Weatherstripping

• Apply foam weatherstripping along the attic opening’s lip

• Mark where the hatch sits so the weatherstripping doesn’t get in the way

A tight seal here prevents air leakage, especially during the winter stack effect.

Pro Insight from an Energy Auditor

In my years of performing energy audits in Maryland, I’ve walked into countless homes where a single room felt noticeably colder or hotter. Almost every time, the culprit was right above — the attic hatch.

If you see:

• Spider webs near the hatch, or

• Discolored insulation above the panel
  …those are signs of airflow and energy loss.

Fixing it with a DIY project like this one is one of the most cost-effective upgrades you can make.

Want to See It In Action?

Watch the full video on YouTube: 

DIY Attic Hatch Insulation | How to Seal & Insulate for Comfort
 

 

It includes:

• Real-world examples

• Time-stamped steps

• Tips to avoid common mistakes

If You're in Maryland…

Schedule your $100 Home Energy Audit using this calendar:

You’ll get:

• A blower door test

• Full insulation + duct analysis

• Rebate eligibility review

• Personalized recommendations

Final Thoughts

Sealing your attic hatch is one of those “small hinge, big door” projects. It doesn’t take long. It doesn’t cost much. But it pays you back in comfort, efficiency, and peace of mind for years to come.

Start here — and take back control of your home’s comfort.

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Written by Eric Gans, Building Analyst & Envelope Professional
I'm a certified energy auditor and insulation contractor in Maryland. I have completed over 2,000 energy audits and taken over 2,000 trips to attics.

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Did you know that at any given time, there are around 40 contractors approved by BGE & PEPCO to perform energy audits across Maryland?

Sounds like a lot of options, right? But here’s the reality:

• Not every audit is created equal.
• And not every auditor sees your home the same way.

Now and then, I get a call from a Maryland homeowner who has already had their audit done but wants a second opinion. When that happens, and they authorize it, I can access their previous file through the BGE/PEPCO system.

And to be totally honest?

I’m amazed at how many audits I review that barely scratch the surface.

Some are missing key findings. Others are just boilerplate. Very few include real-world insights that empower the homeowner to make informed decisions.

A great energy audit isn’t about checking boxes—it’s about telling the story of your home. And to do that well, the person holding the clipboard needs more than just a license.

• They need experience.
• They need curiosity.
• They need to care.

So, how do you make sure the person showing up at your house is the right one?

Start by asking these five questions—yes, even if you’re talking to me.

1. How many BGE energy audits have they completed?

Experience matters. An auditor who’s done 50 homes won’t catch the same patterns as one who’s done 500. Every audit requires time in the attic, time at the rim joist, and time listening to you. A seasoned auditor knows how to balance the technical checklist with real-time problem-solving.

Your $100 audit? It’s a one-shot deal at the discounted price. Make it count.

2. What’s their background before becoming an auditor?

Not all auditors are cut from the same cloth. Some came from the HVAC world. Some from sales. Me? I started in home contracting. Replacement windows, vinyl siding, gutters, entry doors, and, these days, insulation. I’ve lived the problems I help solve now.

Ideally, your auditor should understand homes from the inside out, not just from behind a laptop screen. Bonus points if they’re also a homeowner. Because when you’ve lived with a cold baby’s room or an icy kitchen floor, you don’t need a manual to know where to look.

3. What kind of detail will be in the final report?

Yes, BGE provides a standard template. But the magic is in the details.

A mediocre report feels generic—like it could’ve been written for any house. A great report reflects your home. It echoes your questions. It includes photos, recommendations, and context that make it a valuable reference, not just a PDF you’ll forget about.

4. What’s the physical condition of the auditor? (Yes, really.)

This job isn’t for the faint of heart or knees.

A thorough audit requires crawling through tight crawlspaces, climbing into sweltering attics, and inspecting every inch of the home’s shell. If your auditor can’t (or won’t) go where the problems hide, how can they find what’s going on?

Great energy audits don’t happen from the living room couch.

5. Can they communicate clearly and care enough to explain?

This is the big one.

A great auditor isn’t just a building scientist. They’re also a teacher—someone who can simplify technical concepts without dumbing them down.

If the person can’t explain the stack effect, duct leakage, or R-value in plain English, the report won’t help you. And if they don’t take the time to answer your questions, you’ll be left with more doubt than direction.

Bottom Line: Choose Your Auditor Like You’d Choose a Doctor

Your home is a system. And just like with your health, understanding what’s going on takes more than a glance. It takes the right person asking the right questions, in the right way.

So before you book your BGE energy audit—ask a few questions of your own.

And if you want someone who will crawl through the attic, listen to your concerns, and give you the full picture?

•  Schedule your audit with me today. I’ll treat your home like it’s my own.

Because you don’t need a sales pitch, you need answers.